'Natural Wine’. It struck me as a peculiar trend amongst the gentrifying groups in the cities I was spending time in, between Neukölln in Berlin, Brooklyn in New York and Hackney in London. This comes or seems to be an expression of the general trend back to the countryside as well as the focus on food as art. What does this mean? All of a sudden we arrive at an ideal again of an often male-led nuclear family living in a homestead doing things with their hands? How is that progress? All the problems urban life has shown us are left behind in the cities again? Is it ok to have a longing for the countryside? What is it I am longing for?