I embarked on this project after noticing the peculiar trend of 'natural wine' among gentrifying groups
in cities like Neukölln in Berlin, Brooklyn in New York, and Hackney in London. This phenomenon
reflects a broader societal shift towards a longing for a simpler, more authentic connection to nature
and craftsmanship. I see it in the rise of weekend houses and communities in idyllic regions such as the
Uckermark outside of Berlin and the Hudson Valley in New York state, where individuals seek refuge
from the fast-paced urban life and embrace a return to the land. The convergence of this trend with
the emergence of artisanal food and the farm-to-table movement further solidifies the focus on food
as an art form, blurring the boundaries between sustenance and culture.
As I immerse myself in this world, I confront my own conflicted feelings about the implications of these
trends. The progressive communities appear to have arrived back at an idealized vision of a self-
sufficient homestead, but seemingly regressing to traditional family structures and manual labor. The
question arises: Is this truly progress or a nostalgic longing for a simpler past? What is the underlying
motivation behind this allure of the countryside and the desire to live off the land?
Wine becomes a poignant symbol within this exploration. Historically associated with social status and
refined taste, the most highly prized wines, such as those from Bordeaux and Burgundy, have become
prohibitively expensive, reserved only for the privileged few. As gentrifying communities seek to
reclaim certain bourgeois codes and establish cultural capital, the exorbitant prices of these wines
present a barrier. It is within this context that 'natural wine' emerges as a rebellion against the
established norms, offering an alternative, more accessible path to connoisseurship and cultural
validation. By rejecting conventional wines and embracing a more sustainable, artisanal approach to
winemaking, this cohort asserts ownership over the discourse, challenging existing notions of social
status and exclusivity.
in cities like Neukölln in Berlin, Brooklyn in New York, and Hackney in London. This phenomenon
reflects a broader societal shift towards a longing for a simpler, more authentic connection to nature
and craftsmanship. I see it in the rise of weekend houses and communities in idyllic regions such as the
Uckermark outside of Berlin and the Hudson Valley in New York state, where individuals seek refuge
from the fast-paced urban life and embrace a return to the land. The convergence of this trend with
the emergence of artisanal food and the farm-to-table movement further solidifies the focus on food
as an art form, blurring the boundaries between sustenance and culture.
As I immerse myself in this world, I confront my own conflicted feelings about the implications of these
trends. The progressive communities appear to have arrived back at an idealized vision of a self-
sufficient homestead, but seemingly regressing to traditional family structures and manual labor. The
question arises: Is this truly progress or a nostalgic longing for a simpler past? What is the underlying
motivation behind this allure of the countryside and the desire to live off the land?
Wine becomes a poignant symbol within this exploration. Historically associated with social status and
refined taste, the most highly prized wines, such as those from Bordeaux and Burgundy, have become
prohibitively expensive, reserved only for the privileged few. As gentrifying communities seek to
reclaim certain bourgeois codes and establish cultural capital, the exorbitant prices of these wines
present a barrier. It is within this context that 'natural wine' emerges as a rebellion against the
established norms, offering an alternative, more accessible path to connoisseurship and cultural
validation. By rejecting conventional wines and embracing a more sustainable, artisanal approach to
winemaking, this cohort asserts ownership over the discourse, challenging existing notions of social
status and exclusivity.